The Unique Character of Wonosalam Excelsa
In the world of specialty coffee, where Arabica often takes center stage, a unique coffee from East Java, Indonesia, offers a truly different experience: Wonosalam Excelsa. This distinctive coffee is a variety of the Coffea liberica species, celebrated for its bold, unconventional flavor profile that stands in stark contrast to more common coffee types. For those looking to explore beyond the familiar, Wonosalam Excelsa provides a captivating sensory journey, starting with its most defining feature, a powerful and unmistakable aroma of ripe jackfruit.
From the Volcanic Slopes of Mount Anjasmoro
Wonosalam Excelsa coffee originates from a specific and fertile region in Indonesia: the lush highlands of the Wonosalam district in the Jombang regency of East Java. The coffee farms are spread across the slopes of the volcanic Mount Anjasmoro, which provides the rich soil that is fundamental to the coffee’s unique character.
Its story is rooted in Indonesia’s colonial history. Coffee cultivation was first introduced to this area by the Dutch in the early 19th century. They established plantations to grow various crops, including coffee, making it a heritage crop for the local community. While other coffee varieties were also planted over the years, the Excelsa varietal, a member of the broader Coffea liberica species, found a unique home in Wonosalam’s specific terroir, thriving where other beans could not and eventually becoming the region’s signature coffee.
Growing Conditions: The Terroir of Wonosalam
The secret to Wonosalam Excelsa’s distinct taste lies in its unique growing environment, or terroir. The coffee is cultivated at a specific altitude, typically between 500 and 750 meters above sea level.
This elevation, combined with the region’s rich, dark volcanic soil from the slopes of Mount Anjasmoro, creates the perfect conditions for the Excelsa variety to flourish. The soil is packed with essential minerals that the coffee plants absorb, directly influencing the complexity and bold flavors found in the final cup. This specific combination of altitude, climate, and nutrient-rich earth is what makes the terroir of Wonosalam truly exceptional for producing this one-of-a-kind coffee.
Unique Fact: A West African Discovery and Its Southeast Asian Stronghold
While Wonosalam, Indonesia, is famous for its Excelsa coffee, the cultivar itself was first discovered in West Africa. It was found growing near Lake Chad in 1903.
Despite its African roots, Southeast Asian countries became its largest producers. Today, the Philippines is the most significant producer of Excelsa coffee globally, where it is a crucial part of the local coffee culture, especially for making their strong brewed coffee, kape barako. This makes Indonesia’s Wonosalam Excelsa a special and more localized specialty crop within the global landscape.
Wonosalam Coffee Processing Methods
1. Natural Process (Dry Process)
Natural process is the most common and traditional method used for Wonosalam Excelsa. The entire coffee cherry is dried whole, with the bean still inside the fruit. This process allows the bean to absorb the sugars and flavors from the fruit pulp, which is a key reason why it has such a strong, fruity character, especially its signature jackfruit aroma.
- Taste Impact: Results in a full-bodied coffee with intense fruity notes, noticeable sweetness, and a more complex flavor profile.
2. Honey Process
Some farmers in Wonosalam are also using the honey process method. In this technique, the skin of the coffee cherry is removed, but some or all of the sticky pulp (mucilage) is left on the bean while it dries.
- Taste Impact: This method creates a balanced cup that sits between a natural and a washed coffee. It produces a sweet and syrupy body with a pleasant acidity and highlights the fruity notes in a slightly cleaner way than the natural process.
3. Washed Process (Wet Process)
While less common for Excelsa in this region, some producers also offer a fully washed version. This process involves removing the skin and all of the fruit pulp from the bean with water before it is dried.
- Taste Impact: The washed process results in a much cleaner and brighter cup. It mutes some of the intense fruitiness and allows the coffee’s own inherent flavors and acidity to shine through more clearly.
The Roasting Anomaly: Why Excelsa Cracks Differently
One of the most fascinating aspects of Wonosalam Excelsa happens during the roast. It’s true that Excelsa beans produce a louder, more noticeable “first crack” compared to varieties like Arabica Gayo. This isn’t just a random occurrence; it’s due to the bean’s unique physical structure.
Here’s why it happens:
- Bean Shape and Density: Unlike the uniform oval shape of Arabica, Excelsa beans are more irregular, often resembling a teardrop or almond. They also have varying densities and typically have a lower moisture content.
- Dramatic Energy Release: During roasting, moisture inside the bean turns to steam and builds pressure. Because of Excelsa’s unique structure, this pressure releases more suddenly and forcefully, creating a more audible pop or “crack.”
This roasting anomaly directly impacts the final taste. The vigorous crack means the bean releases energy and moisture rapidly, making it a challenge for the roaster. It requires precise heat control to develop the flavors evenly without scorching the bean. When mastered, this intense process is exactly what unlocks Excelsa’s signature bold, fruity, and complex flavor profile.
Tasting Notes: A Flavor Journey Unlike Any Other
The taste of Wonosalam Excelsa is where truly sets it apart, offering a complex and memorable experience for the palate. It is a coffee that defies simple descriptions and invites you to explore its unique layers.
Here is what you can typically expect:
- Aroma: Before you even take a sip, the coffee announces its presence with a strong and unmistakable aroma of ripe jackfruit. This unique scent is the signature of high-quality Wonosalam Excelsa.
- Flavor Profile: The taste is a dynamic interplay of sensations. It often begins with a prominent tartness or sourness, which is quickly balanced by an underlying sweetness. This is complemented by clear notes of other tropical fruits, creating a bright and bold flavor.
- Body and Finish: This coffee typically has a full, rounded body, giving it a satisfying weight in the mouth. As the flavor develops, subtle undertones of nuts or even dark chocolate can emerge, leading to a long and memorable finish.
Conclusion: Why Wonosalam Excelsa is a Must-Try
From its historic roots on the volcanic slopes of Mount Anjasmoro to its challenging roast and unforgettable taste, Wonosalam Excelsa is more than just a coffee; it’s an experience. It stands proudly as a testament to the diversity of the Coffea liberica species and the rich coffee heritage of Indonesia.
For any coffee lover seeking to step outside the ordinary, this coffee is an essential adventure. Its bold jackfruit aroma and complex fruity notes offer a flavor journey that few other beans can match. As the world of specialty coffee continues to celebrate unique and rare finds, Wonosalam Excelsa is rightfully earning its place as a rising star, a true gem for those who dare to drink differently.